describes C34 owners' storage and shelving upgrade projects.
Please contribute yours!
Hanging Lockers (Cedar Lining)
(Mainsheet, May 1990). Purchase a closet cedar lining kit
from a hardware store. A hit with the first mate.
Navigation Area Shelf
Did you ever wish you had more shelf space on the Catalina 34?
Maybe for a TV, VCR, portable stereo or a slew of other uses?
Having placed a portable stereo on the shelf above the nav
station, I now wanted a place to put a 13" TV. I decided there
was a lot of free space above the stereo sitting on the hanging
To make the shelf you will need the following:
- 1 ea. (16 1/2"x24 3/4"x3/4"Thick) Melamine
covered shelf material
- 1 6' length of Teak Trim from H&L Marine
- 1 ea. (1"x1"x24" long) Teak board
- 2 ea. 16" shelf posts
- miscellaneous wood screws, decorative washers, plain washers,
I made the shelf the same depth as the 'hanging locker top - 16
1/2". (Note this includes the part of the shelf which is hidden
by the teak trim.) Then the shelf was trimmed so that it extended
from the vertical molding (for the head/door corner) back under the
teak drip rail under the ports. (Approx. 24 3/4" long) The
shelf was designed to extend back under the rail so it could be
screwed to the top of the cabin top between the drip rail and the
sliding doors for the storage cabinet above the power panel. This
will provide ample support for the port end of the shelf, but I
added decorative shelf supports for additional support.
Once the shelf has been cut to size it needs to be positioned and
leveled so it is parallel to the shelf below. This will require
approximately four hands or a reasonable amount of patience.
First cut the 1"x1" support board so it leaves
clearance at the starboard end for the teak Shelf trim (from
H&L). Make sure the 1"x1" support extends to the port
end of the board. Drill the board along the bottom with counter sunk
holes spaced approximately 6" apart and then drill counter sunk
holes along the front side of the 1"x1". The first set of
holes will be used to screw the shelf support to the bottom back
edge of the shelf. The second set of holes will be used to fasten
the 1"x1" board to the head wall. (Be careful to not use
screws so long the penetrate the top of the shelf or the head wall
on the inside of the head.)
Attach the 1"x1" lumber to the back side of the shelf.
Using the 1"x1" strip of lumber for the rear shelf support
mark the head wall by drawing a line along the bottom edge while the
shelf is level. Drill the port end of the shelf with holes to be
used to screw the shelf up to the cabin top. I used 2 1/2"
galvanized Drywall screws for this. and counter sunk them so they
were flush with the bottom of the shelf.
You are now ready to mount the shelf. Position the shelf and make
sure there is sufficient clearance for the Shelf trim at the
starboard end. You can use a piece of the trim to get a good fit.
Screw the attached 1"x1" board to the head wall. (Be
careful not to countersink the screws too far or the screws will go
all the way through the wall into the head.) Now drill pilot holes
in the cabin top using the previously drilled holes as guides. Then
install the 2 1/2" screws hold the port end snug up against the
bottom of the teak drip rail.
The shelf support posts now need to be cut to length. Measure the
distance between the Locker shelf and the bottom of the new shelf.
Cut equal amounts off of one of the decorative shelf supports and
slide it into place. Mark the top and bottom shelf so you can drill
holes in the for the center of the post. Make sure you have
clearance inside the locker so you can screw a screw up into the
bottom of the post. Countersink the hole in the top of the new shelf
so the screw can be level with the shelf top. Now cut the other
shelf post for the port end of the shelf. Measure it separately from
the other post measurements in case it is not quite the same and
install as the first one was installed. Note: Since I used a
decorative post it had to be stained and sealed, then it and the
teak trim were varnished with a good satin varnish.
The next step is to cut and install the H&L shelf trim. This
is a cut to fit process. I used a 45 degree corner cut / mitered
corner, you can do the same or you can purchase a round corner piece
from H&L. I think the squared corner looks better since the
bottom shelf is square. The trim piece for the front of the shelf
requires a 45 degree cut at the starboard end and a compound cut at
the port end to match the drip rail angles. I would suggest doing
the drip rail end first allowing extra length so the trim extends
under the drip rail about an inch or so to the end of the shelf.
Then carefully cut the 45 degree corner to match the other shelf
When all is said (@#*^%+) and done you will have a very
functional and beautiful addition to your boat, as well as something
to show off.
After the shelf was installed I added another electrical circuit
with a GFI Outlet and a standard outlet back under the cabinet were
the stereo/TV could be plugged in conveniently.
In order to keep the Stereo and TV from shifting around when
heeled or crossing large power boat wakes I placed strips of
non-skid material under them that was purchased at a Campers World.
Additionally, I keep the door to the head securely latched open by
the addition of a hook latch attached to the molding on the shelf
immediately above the nav station. If you expect sever roughness,
you might consider adding a bungee strap hold down that goes around
the TV and Stereo. You could drill holes in you shelf or add Eye
Straps/Plates to the shelves (Gerald
H&L Marine - 213-636-1718 - Teak Trim Model number - 2020T
Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the
individual contributors to this page, and not those of the Catalina
34 National Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. Additionally, this
material has not been reviewed by Catalina Yachts, Inc. for
technical accuracy. This page's maintainer cannot guarantee the
accuracy of this information or the desirability of suggested
modifications or upgrades. Please obtain assistance from a competent
marine mechanic or boatyard prior to making any significant
modifications to your vessel.