FAQ: Oil Pan Replacement?
How I Changed my OIL PAN!
Subj: Re: [C34] The Oil Pan
Well, here's the first of perhaps a few updates as to the Oil Pan
Dilemma. As usual, thanks to Ron H & Stu J. for their advice &
Further inspection reveals: The damage (corrosion) was done quite awhile
ago. When I rebuilt the Sherwood last year, I solved the leak problem, but
I should have also resolved all the corrosion damage that was so evident
elsewhere. Hindsight...And word to the wise is sufficient here: Look
diligently for any sign of corrosion. Fix immediately. No, sooner than
immediate. Fix definitively. In my humble, inexperienced opinion,
corrosion is the equivalent of engine cancer. So get it all or it just
starts spreading again.
Universal Parts: Southern California offers a Universal "Master
Distributor"; which means getting the parts wasn't as hard as I
thought it would be. Prices were within reason until we got to the oil pan
itself: $225.00. As you know, or FYI: the Westerbeke/Universal website has
a dealer locator - good starting point/resource: www.westerbeke.com
FYI - Rebuilt Universal M25-XP(A) Engines: This particular Universal
dealer offered them at $5,600.
BTW, Ron's advice on oil pan removal is, as usual, excellent and in this
case confirmed by local diesel engine mechanics. I will, however, remain
undaunted, and plan to re-torque those pan bolts the hard way.
LeMasters, BLUE MOON, #753, JAL@flashcom.net
Subj: Re: [C34] The Oil Pan
LeMasters : A few ideas. Take your oil pan to a Kubota dealer and
match it up with their C1100 engine. I think you'll see a BIG price break.
If you are bound and determined to go with a "Universal" pan and
are a Boat US member you can also get a small (10-15%) cut by ordering it
If you were thinking about a rebuilt M25XPA - I'd recommend paying another
$1K and get a New M25XPB which is the same block/dimensions, but has 3
You can lift the engine up 2-4" with only disconnecting the exhaust
from muffler intake. All other wires and hoses can remain connected. I'm
not to sure if this is sufficient height to get a torque wrench under, but
it's better than nothing.
By the way while you've got the engine up - change the engine mounts! I
can't believe the difference the Vetus K50 mounts made on smoothing out my
25XP. After idle there's NO rpm that's smoother than another!!!! From 1200
to 3200 the only change is that the engine is louder. The K50 mounts are
similar the new style Universal mounts.
I don't have my engine manuals hardy, but I'll guess at about 25-30 foot
pounds of torque. I'm not to sure what to advise, but if you only lift the
engine you'll have to brace it, keeping it from turning while torquing.
Lifting the engine is easy as it only weighs 309lbs. with transmission.
The engine has 2 lifting eyes on it although I didn't use them. If you
want to use a 4:1 block and tackle on to the boom let me know and I'll
give you a few tips.
When you get your task completed (don't forget to take some pictures)
write an article for the Mainsheet and send it to Bill Nuttall. I'm sure
Al will want the same for the C34 Net. Keep me posted. Best of luck.
Ron, APACHE, #788, email@example.com
Subj: [C34] Oil Pan
Ron, in your previous emails, you mentioned the difficulty in
torqueing the Oil Pan bolts down while the engine is still in place. I
can't find anywhere in the Universal service manual, or in either of my
generic diesel engine manuals where torqueing is required and/or
suggested. i.e., I can't find the torque specifications.
However, I am now planning on torqueing them anyway, based on your info.
Can you confirm this for me?
Also, can you verify the number mentioned in your most recent email of
BTW, I found a torque wrench that'll fit under the attached oil pan, &
using a mirror, I'll be able to retorque without having to lift the
engine. (I am, however, STRONGLY considering acting upon your advice &
replacing the engine mounts. (No, I won't try to do THAT without lifting
Now here's the update:
Despite being told by local diesel mechanics that since the pan had been
ON the engine for 12 years that it would take another 12 years to get it
OFF, I found that it was more like 12 minutes. (Excluding the time it took
to pull those 18 pan bolts). Hammer & non-metallic wedge/chisel device
aimed at the grove in the pan (this per the Universal Service manual
instruction). Worked like a charm.
Was also greatly relieved to NOT find tiny metallic parts at the bottom of
the oil pan.
MANY THANKS to whomever suggested those oil absorbent pads. (Unrelated
email few months ago). Owe you a drink.
In case anyone's still reading this far down, I will again harp on the
dangers of not controlling corrosion. The bolts holding the dip stick tube
onto the oil pan were so corroded, I could not separate the tube from the
pan. The pan is probably worth salvaging, but because I haven't yet found
a way to remove the tube without damaging (or at least potentially
compromising the integrity of) the pan, I've bought a new one. ($225) The
lesson: Had I been good about checking for engine corrosion, I wouldn't
have ANY problem. Had I been even sloppy about checking, the total repair
cost probably would have stayed under $100, including a new gasket for the
pan, new oil filter, fresh oil, new dip stick tube & maybe even 5 or 6
new really cool tools. But my laziness/negligence has ended up costing a
good $300+. Not counting the messy cleanup time & missed sailing time.
word to the wise...John LeMasters, BLUE MOON #753, JAL@flashcom.net
Subj: [C34] Oil Pan
John : All my manuals are on the boat so I went to my Ford Taurus shop
manuals. On an oil pan reinstallation Ford recommends 8-10 ft.lbs. Now
that I think about it again 25 is too much. All you are trying to do is
get all the bolts EVENLY snugged down. The gasket will compress(crush) a
On the nondrying sealant I'd recommend #2 Non Hardening Permatex - I've
always had good luck with it. Make sure that you use it on BOTH sides of
the gasket and alittle goes a long way. The pan and engine surfaces must
be absolutely clean of old gasket and oil.
Before you dumped the old oil you should have run a magnet thru it -
that's the way to find minuet "chips".
Ron, APACHE #788, firstname.lastname@example.org
Subj: [C34] Oil Pan
Okay, so torque oil pan bolts somewhere between 10 - 20 ft.lbs.-
EVENLY being the operative word. Apparently torque wrenches are a must
have tool for engine work. In fact, I found a marine diesel book that
identifies them as "essential" for the cruiser's toolbox.
I've begun a video of this entire oil pan replacement process, including
the gut-wrenching "before" shot. Am looking for a way to offer
this to the C34 site in a format that won't take too long to download;
suggestions are welcomed.
Bon Voyage, Ron, & thanks to you & the list for all the help
John LeMasters, BLUE MOON, #753, JAL@flashcom.net
Subj: Re: [C34] Oil Pan Bolt Torque
The engine manual does not specifically refer to any torque values for
the oil pan bolts. The only reference is on page 120 under notes for
reassembly where it says to apply a nondrying adhesive and install the oil
pan. It notes that the bolts should be tightened in diagonal order from
the center. That's it!
There are however some generic torques for metric bolts depending on their
diameter and material grade that may be of help.
Dia in mm Torque in ft/lbs (for standard grade bolts, type SS41, S20C)
I would be cautious and err on the side of too little rather than too
much to avoid distortion of the sheet metal pan. It's a lot easier to have
to retighten a bolt or 2 later than to have to drop the pan and try to
true up the sealing surface.
Bob L., "Sjora", SvSjora@aol.com
Important: The opinions expressed here are those
of the individual contributors to this page, and not those of the Catalina
34 National Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. Additionally, this
material has not been reviewed by Catalina Yachts, Inc. for technical
accuracy. This page's maintainer cannot guarantee the accuracy of this
information or the desirability of suggested modifications or upgrades.
Please obtain assistance from a competent marine mechanic or boatyard
prior to making any significant modifications to your vessel.