Difference between revisions of "V Berth Louvered Doors"

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==Improved V-Berth Storage Area Access & Ventilation Using Louvered Doors==
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==V berth insert modification==
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'''By Lance Jones, ''Kitty's Cat'' #622 (1988)'''
  
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'''by Dan Harrington, ''Weal Sea'' #1289'''
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[[image:PLACEHOLDER-C34.jpg|thumb|300px|Placeholder caption here]]
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For those of you who have added Dan Harrington's excellent project for under V-berth storage (http://www.c34ia.org/wiki/index.php?title=V_Berth_Louvered_Doors) but, still want to be able to lower the V-berth insert to the mid level, I did the following modification that you may be interested in.
  
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====Tools & Materials====
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Pat and I always found the "drawer" under the V-berth almost useless. In addition, in order to access the V-berth storage space, you had to remove mattress. Despite this, the drawer or drawer frame was always in the way. Also, those 2 "cul-de-sacs" on each side of the V-berth storage between the side bulkheads and hull were difficult to get at. Furthermore, cold water on the hull caused condensation to form in the compartment causing high humidity which predisposed to mold! Because of ALL of the above, I decided to install louvered doors to increase access to this storage areas and at the same time solve (at least partially) the humidity problem.
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Tools: Saw, Measuring Tape, Pencil (or some other type marker), Straight Edge, Drill, #10 Screw pilot & counter-sink, Phillips screw driver or same type bit for drill.
  
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'''Installation of Louvered Doors to Access V-Berth Storage Area'''
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Materials: 1x2 inch strip of teak or other suitable material, Masking Tape, Eight 1 1/2 inch #10 wood or self tapping screws (using #10 bolts is an option too)
  
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In order to (1) improve access to the storage area under the V-berth as well as (2) increase the ventilation and (3) decrease the humidity caused by hull condensation in this compartment, I installed four 12”x12” louvered teak doors. Two of these doors replaced the standard “drawer” in the forward bulkhead under the V-berth. The remaining doors provided access to the “cul-de sacs” off the main compartment on the port and starboard sides of the stateroom. Using self-closing cabinet hinges eliminated the need for door latches. The series of photos shown here illustrate the installation.
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====Procedure====
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Step 1. Locate molded-in ledge that the V-berth insert rests on in the mid-position.
  
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<gallery caption="(Click on thumbnails to enlarge)" widths="250px" perrow="3">
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Step 2. Measure both the starboard and port lips. They are different lengths.
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Image:vberthlda.jpg|Original hole in forward bulkhead under V-berth after removal of the standard drawer
 
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Image:vberthldb.jpg|Holes cut in forward bulkhead and port side bulkhead of stateroom to accommodate new doors. A door hole was also cut in the starboard side bulkhead (not seen in photo)
 
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Image:vberthldc.jpg|A piece of the bulkhead removed from one of the side bulkheads was trimmed and fiberglassed-in the forward bulkhead to fill-in the gap between the door holes
 
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</gallery>
 
  
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Step 3. Cut your teak to the appropriate length. I added about 1/2 inch to mine and transferred the angle on the corner of the ledge to the wood.
  
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<gallery caption=" Louvered doors installed " widths="850px" >
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Step 4. Determine screw hole locations. I evenly spaced 4 screws on each slat. Then drill them out using the pilot drill and counter-sink.
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Image:vberthldde.jpg
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</gallery>
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Step 5. I taped my two pieces in their respective locations and then used the holes to drill through the fiberglass underneath to insure proper alignment.
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Step 6. Insert the screws and then seat them with your screw driver or drill.
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Step 7. Enjoy the full use of your V-berth insert. (Note) you will have to remove the insert to open and close the doors.
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====Side notes====
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I'm a pack rat -- especially when it comes to teak. So, for this project, I used the teak from one of my old C-22s that was used on the companion way to slide the crib boards in. They are ideal for this project as the are L-shaped and have a lot of strength.
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I have not completed this project yet as I have to finish the wood with Cetol and then reinstall. However, until then, they will continue to be used in their unfinished, weathered condition. I'll add a picture soon too.

Revision as of 17:56, 30 December 2009

V berth insert modification

By Lance Jones, Kitty's Cat #622 (1988)

Placeholder caption here

For those of you who have added Dan Harrington's excellent project for under V-berth storage (http://www.c34ia.org/wiki/index.php?title=V_Berth_Louvered_Doors) but, still want to be able to lower the V-berth insert to the mid level, I did the following modification that you may be interested in.

Tools & Materials

Tools: Saw, Measuring Tape, Pencil (or some other type marker), Straight Edge, Drill, #10 Screw pilot & counter-sink, Phillips screw driver or same type bit for drill.

Materials: 1x2 inch strip of teak or other suitable material, Masking Tape, Eight 1 1/2 inch #10 wood or self tapping screws (using #10 bolts is an option too)

Procedure

Step 1. Locate molded-in ledge that the V-berth insert rests on in the mid-position.

Step 2. Measure both the starboard and port lips. They are different lengths.

Step 3. Cut your teak to the appropriate length. I added about 1/2 inch to mine and transferred the angle on the corner of the ledge to the wood.

Step 4. Determine screw hole locations. I evenly spaced 4 screws on each slat. Then drill them out using the pilot drill and counter-sink.

Step 5. I taped my two pieces in their respective locations and then used the holes to drill through the fiberglass underneath to insure proper alignment.

Step 6. Insert the screws and then seat them with your screw driver or drill.

Step 7. Enjoy the full use of your V-berth insert. (Note) you will have to remove the insert to open and close the doors.

Side notes

I'm a pack rat -- especially when it comes to teak. So, for this project, I used the teak from one of my old C-22s that was used on the companion way to slide the crib boards in. They are ideal for this project as the are L-shaped and have a lot of strength.

I have not completed this project yet as I have to finish the wood with Cetol and then reinstall. However, until then, they will continue to be used in their unfinished, weathered condition. I'll add a picture soon too.

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