FAQ: Buying a Used C34

I'm in the market for a used C34.
What should I look for?

The C-34 has evolved over the past 12 years always having the choices of the tall (approximately 52 feet) or the standard (approximately 50 feet) mast and the wing (4 feet 3 inch) or fin (5 feet 7 inch) keel. Besides the normal minor production changes affecting cabinets and hatches, there have been significant changes to the rigging, hull, and engine. The early 1985 and 1986 hulls have a deck stepped mast with a Universal 25 (21HP) diesel engine. The 1987 through 1990 hulls incorporated a keel stepped mast with a Universal 25XP (23 HP) engine. In 1990-91 the hull incorporated a walk-through transom and a Universal M35 (30 HP). The new mkII (there may be a few on the used market) again has a deck stepped mast with a redesigned hull which is noticeably beamier in the cockpit and transom areas. A number of modifications and owner customized changes can be found in the Tech Notes section. Most owners are extremely opinionated as to which version of the C-34 is best! Remember to get a good surveybut also make the sale contingent on a sea trial. Turn on all switches and check the functioning of each and every system. I'd recommend the buyer and seller or seller's representative be personally present during a hands on sea trial (Ron Hill, C34 National Association Technical Editor).

I purchased a new C34 MkII last year, after looking at a number of older C34's. In the end, the decision to buy new was a result of being offered the right deal. Of all the used C34's we looked at, I think we liked the '86-'89 version best. Also, since purchasing our boat (hull #1304, not yet named) we have met many other C34 owners throughout the various Puget Sound anchorage's. One common "observation" is that the 3 cylinder engine is sometimes underpowered - but not to the point of being a problem. We had an opportunity to compare performance last May, when we found ourselves motoring alongside an '89 C34 in 35-50 knot headwinds, through a long, narrow passage. Our boat was making about 3.8 - 4.1 knots at a comfortable 2150 rpm (with the fixed 2-blade prop), while the other boat was making about 2.0 - 2.3 knots at what they later said was a steady 2500 rpm. That skipper claimed the difference in performance was solely due to the larger 30hp M35 Universal-Westerbeke engine. Naturally, outside of controlled conditions, I couldn't make that claim. I had also just had my hull cleaned. Another "upgrade" that appears to be almost universal with the earlier C34's has been the addition of an electric windlass. The prime cruising areas in the Northwest are the San Juan and Canadian Gulf Islands. If the anchor isn't buried in deep sand, it usually is tangled in lots of kelp. Either way, life is easier with the windlass! Of particular interest in the Northwest is the addition of a forced-air diesel heater and the spare amperage to keep it running. Wind generators, larger alternators and additional electrical storage capacity is always a plus - especially if you are also running a radar, inverter, et al. Hope the above doesn't confuse you. One very positive thing I have noticed is the general condition of every C34 I have seen in these waters. Regardless of vintage, they have all been in Bristol condition - with crews that were happy to be on board! (Bob Bonnington)

WHEN BUYING A USED C-34 1991/2 AND EARLIER. There are two items/modifications to look for. 1. If the boat has an M25 engine, look at the alternator adjusting arm. If the arm is over the top of the alternator, Universal Motors recommended a modification. The mod kit changed the arm attachment to underneath the alternator (like the bracket on the M25XP engine)-- see MAINSHEET Feb 1988. 2. You should check and see if the Catalina recommended wiring harness upgrade has been installed. If the engine instrument panel has an ammeter, it has NOT been upgraded. If the engine has a voltmeter, you need to make some more checks. The wiring from the engine (port side) should go into a terminal-block, NOT into a molded 8-pin male/female trailer type connection. There should also be a short heavy gauge wire (approximately #6 gauge). From the alternator to the lug on the starter solenoid (see MAINSHEET May 1997). Ron Hill

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to this page, and not those of the Catalina 34 National Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. Additionally, this material has not been reviewed by Catalina Yachts, Inc. for technical accuracy. This page's maintainer cannot guarantee the accuracy of this information or the desirability of suggested modifications or upgrades. Please obtain assistance from a competent marine mechanic or boatyard prior to making any significant modifications to your vessel.